Four Sacred Vajrayogini Sites of Nepal and Their Spiritual Significance
Nestled in the heart of the Himalayas, four great Vajrayogini temples are living shrines that have drawn pilgrims, yogis, and masters for over a thousand years. Among all enlightened beings in the vast Tibetan Buddhist pantheon, none can be compared to Vajrayogini in terms of the efficacy and expediency of practice. Her mantra, from the Chakrasamvara Tantras, is the King of Mantras, meaning that with Vajrayogini initiation and practice, you will not need to recite any other mantras. If your vows and commitments are intact, you can gain spiritual attainments through the mere recitation of her mantra, even if you do not engage in any accompanying visualizations. Whether you are a devoted practitioner, a curious traveler, or a spiritual seeker, visiting these four sacred sites is one of the most transformative journeys you can undertake in Nepal.
Vajrayogini: The Flame of Wisdom and Sacred Transformation
Vajrayogini is the consort of Heruka, and her incredible, efficacious Tantra was first expounded by Vajradhara within the 47th and 48th chapters of the Heruka Root Tantra. She is a Highest Yoga Tantra yidam and is considered to be one of the most important deities in the Tibetan Buddhism. Her Tantra is considered the most suitable for people in these degenerate times, when desire is the strongest energy. The reason for Vajrayogini's efficacy lies in her ability to transform ordinary desire energy into great bliss, a quality necessary on the Tantric path to enlightenment.
Vajrayogini's practice includes special instructions for transforming all ordinary daily experiences into higher spiritual paths, as well as for preventing ordinary death, the intermediate state (bardo), and rebirth by turning them into paths toward enlightenment.
The Origins of Vajrayogini in Nepal
The connection between this Highest Yoga Tantra deity and the Himalayan kingdom of Nepal began with Mahasiddha Naropa and the Phamthingpa brothers, and Vajrayogini's practice eventually became immensely popular across the country. Naropa bestowed the great Vajrayogini lineage of Naro Kachö on two brothers from Pharping, Nepal. The eldest, named Vagisvarakirti, studied under Naropa for nine years, and the youngest, named Bodhibhadra, studied under Naropa for five years. For the Six Yogas of Naropa, it is necessary to receive an initiation in the highest class of tantra, the Anuttarayoga tantra class, such as one of the different systems of Chakrasamvara (Heruka), Hevajra, or Vajrayogini. Without such an initiation, it is forbidden to teach these practices and, likewise, forbidden for someone to listen to and study them. Within the lineage of masters who transmitted the Vajrayogini teachings, they are commonly referred to together as the Phamthingpa brothers.
From these two brothers, Vajrayogini proliferated throughout Nepal. They also taught the practice to Mal Lotsawa, an early Sakya translator who brought it to Tibet. As a result, innumerable masters and ordinary disciples held Vajrayogini as a secret Tantric practice for centuries. Today, there are five main Vajrayogini power places in Nepal: Sankhu, Pharping, Patan, Bidyeshwari, and Guhyeshwari. The first four accept visitors from all over the world, while Guhyeshwari remains the only Vajrayogini sacred power place that does not permit foreign visitors.
Bidyeshwari: The Flying Dakini of Kathmandu
Location and Background
The sacred Bidyeshwari Temple of Vajrayogini lies on the west bank of the Bishnumati River in Kathmandu city. Also known by a few other names, such as Bijayaswar, Visyasvari, or Vidhyeshvari, the temple was built right at the epicenter of a powerful ancient cremation ground that is described in the Vajravarahi Tantras. In the text, this cremation ground is known as Ramadoli or Karnadip.
The Sacred Image
At the center of the temple's main altar is a statue of the goddess Vidyadhari, the 'Knowledge Holder,' or 'Bidyeshwari,' which is the Newari pronunciation of her name. Her sacred body is poised in mid-flight with her right leg bent behind her at the knee and her left leg pulled up high against her breast with her left arm. In this pose, it is particularly clear to see why she is referred to as Akash Vajrayogini or Flying Vajrayogini.
To the left of the central image is Vajravarahi (Indra Kachö) in sacred dance, and to the right of the central image is Uddhapada Vajrayogini (Maitri Kachö). On the right wall of the temple is a statue of Vajrayogini Naro Khechari, or Naropa's Dakini, the form of Vajrayogini that originated from a vision of the Mahasiddha Naropa.
Temple Architecture
Carved into the ceiling of the temple is the double-tetrahedral mandala of Vajrayogini, while the courtyard of the temple is filled with stupas of various shapes and sizes. The temple itself is an ancient Newar Buddhist temple and is topped by a traditional Newari pagoda-style roof constructed directly above the shrine.
Pharping: Birthplace of the Lineage
Location and Background
The Vajrayogini temple at Pharping is known as Pharping Bajra Jogini in Nepali, or Phamthing Dorje Neljorma in Tibetan. It houses a sacred image of Vajrayogini, which has, in the past, manifested the miracle of speaking.
The Sacred Image
The main form of Vajrayogini at the Pharping Temple is known by many names, including Uddhapada Vajrayogini (Maitri Kachö) and Phamthing Yogini; to the Hindus, she is known as Nil Tara. Like most forms of Vajrayogini, she is red in color. With her right foot firmly planted upon the worldly deity Maha Ishvara on the ground, the other is raised straight up into the sky, pulled up by her left arm, which holds a skullcup to her mouth. A khatvanga staff rests on her left shoulder, and in her right hand she holds a curved cemetery knife to her side. Her attendants Baghini and Singhini, the tiger- and lion-headed yoginis, flank her.
Historical Significance
This unique form of Vajrayogini first appeared in a vision to Vagisvarakirti, the elder of the two Phamthingpa brothers, who was a Nepali master and disciple of the famous Mahasiddha Naropa. The famous Vagisvarakirti lived in the 11th century and was renowned as one of the greatest teachers of his day. This great yogin of the Guhyasamaja, Chakrasamvara, and Hevajra traditions was the heart disciple of Naropa. Aside from the image of Phamthing Yogini in the main chapel, there is another holy statue of Vajrayogini enshrined in a separate chamber to the side. It is said that this statue belonged to the traveling Tibetan master Marpa, who, while on his travels to India, actually stopped at Pharping to worship Vajrayogini at this shrine.
Patan: The Thousand Buddhas Temple
Location and Background
Another sacred Vajrayogini temple can be found at Patan's Mahaboudha Temple, which is known in Tibetan as 'Yerang Sangye Tongku,' or 'Thousand Buddhas of Patan.' Located in Oku Bahal, the Mahaboudha Temple is an attractive Indian-style stone stupa constructed right in the middle of a courtyard, with the stupa above a shrine to Lord Buddha below. It is a replica of the original stupa that stands at Vajrasana in Bodhgaya, India, the ancient temple constructed at the very spot where Buddha is said to have gained complete enlightenment.
The Sacred Image
The main Vajrayogini image is that of Akash Vajrayogini, or the 'Flying Vajrayogini.' The Patan Vajrayogini Temple is located in the old part of town, not far from Patan Durbar Square. Visitors must walk through a narrow alley in between shops to get to the entrance to the courtyard. The temple is accessible via a steep flight of steps.
About Patan
Patan, also known as Lalitpur, is an ancient city known for its beauty. Patan, the oldest of the three cities in the Kathmandu Valley, is located approximately five kilometers south of Kathmandu City on the southern side of the Bagmati River. Patan is also renowned for being home to a great many craftsmen and artisans, and it is an excellent place to purchase Buddhist and Hindu statues, figurines, paintings, and the like.
Sankhu: The Oldest and Most Ancient Shrine
Location and Background
The Sankhu Vajrayogini Temple, a complex of multiple shrines, is located at the top of a hill just off the road from Nyanang. The central image worshipped at Sankhu is an ancient and extraordinarily sublime image of the goddess Vajrayogini Ugra-tara, who is enshrined in the lower temple inside a Newari-style building with a gilded copper roof.
The Sacred Image
The statue, said to be self-arising, is painted red. With one face and four arms, two of her hands hold a skullcup and curved knife at the level of her heart, while the remaining two hold a sword and an utpala lotus on either side of her body. Since the sword is her distinctive implement, she is also popularly known as Khadga Jogini, 'khadga' being Nepali for 'sword.'
A Living Relic
One of the most extraordinary aspects of the Sankhu shrine is its deeply personal spiritual history. According to a Tibetan source, a powerful and attained female lama used to live in Sankhu. She is said to have attained enlightenment by relying on Vajrayogini and benefited countless beings. After she passed away, many auspicious signs reportedly manifested during her funeral, thus indicating her sublime nature. In the end, her sacred remains were inserted into this statue of Vajrayogini Ugra-tara.
Ancient Roots
According to the Newari tradition, the Sankhu Vajrayogini is said to be the oldest of the four sister yoginis of the Kathmandu Valley, the others being Guhyeshwari, Pharping, and Bidyeshwari. Therefore, Sankhu is inarguably one of the Valley's oldest shrines. The site has a 5th-century association with King Manadeva, and Guru Rinpoche is said to have hidden sacred treasure teachings (termas) throughout the Sankhu area for future practitioners to discover.
The Meaning of Pilgrimage: Why the Journey Matters
A pilgrimage to these sites is far more than a cultural tour. Everything holy beings own or use, including the area they live or practice in, is entirely for the benefit of other beings. Therefore, the sites where holy beings reside, practice, and benefit countless beings become imbued with the everlasting energies of the compassionate, enlightened mind.
When we go to these places, show reverence, and make offerings and aspirational prayers, we create the direct causes to attain this same state of compassion and to gain the same enlightened qualities that these beings had. It is highly recommended that all who wish to be connected with Vajrayogini or wish to practice her Tantra should travel to these temples to offer powerful prayers and aspirations alongside many types of offerings. In visiting these power places, we gain the blessings of Vajrayogini, regardless of which form of Vajrayogini is enshrined within, as they are all just different manifestations of the same enlightened being that showed a quick path toward liberation.
Core Rituals of Vajrayogini
- Daily Sadhana: A structured daily practice of prayers, visualizations, and mantra recitation that moves the practitioner from generating Vajrayogini's form to resting like the mind.
- Mantra Recitation: Known as the "King of Mantras," her mantra alone recited with faith and pure commitment is said to be sufficient to gain spiritual realizations.
- Tsok (Feast Offering): A communal ritual of purified food and drink offerings performed on the 10th and 25th of every lunar month, symbolizing the union of wisdom and method.
- Puja and Temple Offerings: Formal group ceremonies at monasteries and pilgrimage sites involving butter lamps, khata scarves, sindhura powder, flowers, and food open only to empowered practitioners.
- Visualization Practice: The practitioner vividly imagines Vajrayogini's form and attributes, using each symbolic detail her curved knife, skull cup, and blazing red body as a doorway into realization.
- Six Yogas of Naropa: An advanced completion-stage practice using inner heat (tummo), clear light, and illusory body built upon Vajrayogini empowerment as its essential foundation.
- Dakini Day Observance: Monthly and annual celebration of Vajrayogini on the 25th lunar day by chant, meditation, compassion, and group sadhana.
Conclusion
The four sacred Vajrayogini sites of Nepal: Bidyeshwari, Pharping, Patan, and Sankhu form a living mandala of enlightened energy across the Kathmandu Valley. The Vajrayogini at each site is unique, with its own historical background and blessings for the sincere and devout. These power places have the power to awaken something deep within you. Whether you are a seasoned tantra practitioner or just beginning to start your spiritual journey, there is something here that can connect you to the Dakini Queen and can span lifetimes.
